The Royal Brilliant diamond, a cut created by Japanese diamantaire Mickey Ishida of EX Royal Co., Inc., is an 82-faceted round brilliant. The cut is its own study in the aesthetics of brilliance and scintillation, the concept being that, especially in larger stones, the more facets, the more sparkle. The cut is patented (U.S. Patent #286,387) and the Royal Brilliant name is trademarked. The company holds design copyrights in 11 other countries.
The Royal Brilliant cut was the consummation of Ishida's quest for a beautiful stone yielding the maximum optical effect. Additional faceting on the crown of these stones often yields enhanced scintillation, especially around the outside of the stone when viewed from above. Dark patches seen through the crown of traditional round brilliant diamonds appear as additional whiteness in the Royal Brilliant under certain lighting conditions including one-candle lighting. According to Ishida, beauty is in the contrast between black and white. Women wear their diamonds in all sorts of environments, and with this cut a diamond will appear brilliant even in dark rooms. In Ishida's opinion, 58facet cutting is unnecessary in stones smaller than 30 points. Traditional Tolkowsky 58-facet cutting is fine for 30 points through i-carat sizes, but Ishida argues that above 1 carat, "the bigger the stone, the more facets are needed to maintain strong scintillation." Ishida has been very interested in the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) studies regarding brilliance and scintillation in round diamonds and the refutation of the term "ideal" in regard to 58-sided stones with excellent polish and symmetry.
Like many in the industry, he eagerly awaits the announcement of additional findings by GIA scientists analyzing stones with computers. Mathematical difficulties arise in computer analysis of Royal Brilliant stones, however, as the additional 24 facets make calculation 350 times more complicated. Cutting these stones is more difficult and nearly twice as time-consuming as cutting traditional ideal cuts, and rough lost is approximately 5 to 8 percent more. The company employs three cutters, each having been specially trained to cut Royal Brilliants to the company's specifications. More than 80 percent are designated as excellent-excellent by GIA's Gem Trade Laboratory.
Pricing of the Royal Brilliant is relative to the percentage of rough loss and the high cost and degree of difficulty involved in manufacturing the stones. As a result, the stones are typically priced about 5 to 10 percent higher than ideal cut diamonds.
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